Nepal Trek – Kangchenjunga Circuit, the Hidden Giant

We take an early flight from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur in the far east of Nepal. From there, we drive to Ilam, a hill town known for its tea gardens, with the first views of the Kangchenjunga range appearing on the horizon. Tonight we sleep in a hotel.

We drive to Taplejung, the gateway to the Kangchenjunga region, then begin the trek. The trail drops through terraced fields and forest to Mitlung, a small village on the banks of the Tamor river. The trek has begun.

We follow the Tamor river upstream through subtropical forest and small settlements. The valley is lush and warm. Few trekkers come this way. The trail is quiet and the villages are genuinely off the tourist circuit.

The trail continues along the river, climbing gradually. The vegetation shifts as we gain altitude. Stone bridges, waterfalls and the occasional glimpse of snow peaks ahead.

We leave the river valley and begin climbing in earnest. The forest thickens; rhododendron, oak and bamboo. And the air cools. The Kangchenjunga massif starts to reveal itself above the treeline.

A steady climb through forest and alpine meadows. Gyabla is a small Tibetan-influenced settlement, with prayer flags, mani walls and yaks on the hillside. The high mountains are close now.

We arrive in Ghunsa, the main village on the northern route — a traditional Tibetan community at the foot of the Kangchenjunga massif. Stone houses, a monastery and extraordinary mountain views. We spend two nights here.

A rest day in Ghunsa. Walk high, sleep low. An optional hike above the village gives the first clear views of Jannu. one of the most dramatic peaks in the entire Himalayan range, and the glaciers above Ghunsa. It’s time to acclimatise, explore and prepare for the days ahead.

We leave Ghunsa and climb into the high valley. The landscape becomes wilder, with fewer trees, more rock and ice. Khambachen is a small settlement with big views, the last real stopping point before the North Base Camp push.

This is a high and exposed day above the glacier. The terrain is raw and spectacular. Moraines, frozen streams and the north face of Kangchenjunga filling the horizon. Lhonak is a basic camp at the edge of the glacier.

The biggest day on the northern side. We set off early and climb to North Base Camp at 5,475 m / 17,963 ft — a vast glacial bowl beneath the north face of the world’s third highest mountain. The scale is almost impossible to comprehend. We return to Lhonak in the afternoon.

Congrats on reaching North Base Camp! That was a serious day at serious altitude. 💪😁

We retrace our steps down the valley to Ghunsa. The descent feels fast. The mountain stays with us the whole way.

We leave the northern valley and begin the approach to the high pass that connects the two sides of the circuit. The trail climbs through increasingly remote terrain to the base camp below Sele La.

The high pass crossing. We climb to Sele La and cross from the northern to the southern side of the Kangchenjunga circuit. A long, demanding day with extraordinary views from the pass. The descent to Tseram is steep and rewarding.

We climb towards the southern side of Kangchenjunga. Ramche is the last camp before the Oktang viewpoint — small, exposed and completely surrounded by mountains.

The highlight of the southern side. We hike to Oktang — the viewpoint directly below the south face of Kangchenjunga. The mountain fills the entire sky. Then we descend all the way back to Tseram. A long day, but one of the most memorable of the entire circuit.

Congrats! We have now seen Kangchenjunga from both sides. Not many people can say that.  😎

The descent begins in earnest. The forest returns. With rhododendron and bamboo, warmer air and the sounds of birds. Tortong is a small lodge in the forest, a world away from the glacial terrain of the past few days.

We continue descending through forest and terraced fields. Yamphudin is a larger village with a more settled feel. This is the end of the high mountain section of the trek.

The trail winds through the lower hills of the far eastern Terai foothills. The landscape is greener and warmer. Villages become more frequent.

The final walking day. We complete the descent to Khandenba, where the road begins. The trek is done.

Congrats! We have completed the full Kangchenjunga Circuit. One of the most remote and rewarding treks in all of Nepal. Well done. 🙌

We board our vehicle and drive through the green hills of eastern Nepal to Bhadrapur. The mountains slowly disappear behind us.

An early morning flight back to Kathmandu. Back in the city: a hot shower, a soft bed and the quiet satisfaction of knowing what we just did.

Mountain flights depend on the weather and delays can happen. If the flight from Lukla is delayed, this extra day gives you the buffer you need.

Smooth flight back? The day is yours. It’s a great opportunity for sightseeing. There’s so much to explore in the Kathmandu Valley!

Sightseeing

Kathmandu is an ancient city with many UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  Want to explore the city today? Here are some ideas.

Boudhanath Stupa

One of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Boudhanath is the spiritual heart of the Tibetan community in Kathmandu. Walking the kora, the circular path around the stupa, alongside monks, pilgrims and locals is an experience that stays with you. The whitewashed dome, the prayer flags and the steady hum of chanting make this place unlike anywhere else in the city.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square

About 13 km east of Kathmandu lies Bhaktapur, a medieval city that feels like it has barely changed in centuries. The Durbar Square is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to the Palace of 55 Windows, the five-story Nyatapola Temple and the ornate Golden Gate. Behind the square, Pottery Square is still a working craft centre where local artisans shape clay by hand, just as they have done for generations.

Pashupatinath Temple

The holiest Hindu temple in Nepal, dedicated to Lord Shiva in his form as Pashupati, protector of animals. The temple complex sits on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River, about 5 km from Thamel. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple, but the surrounding complex is open to all. From the eastern bank of the river, you can watch the cremation ghats and the daily rituals that have taken place here for centuries.